MacBook Pro WiFi repeatedly drops

Having been a Mac user for nearly 40 years, it is sad how unreliable Apple products have become. The latest problem (which others have been discussing but apparently nobody has resolved) is WiFi repeatedly dropping on the MacBook Pro 2021 (mine is running OS 12.7.6). 


On other forums, there are lots of non-solutions being offered, such as "renew DHCP lease" or "check your WiFi." I have been dealing with this problem for months. It happens on every WiFi that I have tried -- at home, at the homes of friends, at hotels, etc. It is not the WiFi. It is the computer. WiFi will remain connected for a few minutes or so. Then it drops, but it shows on the bar above that it is still connected. If you reconnect the WiFi, it will again work for a short period of time. 


Oddly, the WiFi does not drop if something is streaming; this allows me to work around the problem by constantly streaming a long file that has low bandwidth. Another work around is to use my iPhone as a hotspot (in which case the connection doesn't drop). This is the type of problem that never used to exist with Apple computers. I have a MacBook Pro 2015 and Mac Pros from 2013 and earlier that do not have this problem. 


What is going on with Apple? I have also been having a problem with my iPhone, which repeatedly drops the cell connection. Many others have reported this problem. Verizon is aware of it. They installed a new SIM card that seemed to resolve the problem, but it came back a few weeks later. 




[Edited by Moderator]

MacBook Pro 16″

Posted on Oct 21, 2025 6:50 PM

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Question marked as Top-ranking reply

Posted on Oct 21, 2025 9:47 PM

Michael Collins3 wrote:

Thanks for the reply, but none of this works. I have tried all of it.


Understandable.


"renew DHCP lease" is as worthless as "check your WiFi" is obvious. Makes you wonder why people bother to post such nonsense.


I believe what Grant Bennet-Alder was suggesting was for you to provide some of the information he alluded to.


For example Wireless Diagnostics finishes with a Summary page. Ideally, it will resemble the following:


Anything else requires investigation.


Your Wi-Fi menu parameters may also be useful. As he wrote, "Screenshot, transcribe, or photograph the results and post back in a reply on the forums."


The Wireless Diagnostics log folder in /var/tmp will also contain copious amounts of information. The most useful file it generates may be diagnostics-environment.txt but others such as ping.txt and (your SSID)-diagnostics.txt are short enough to review and / or post for others who aren't experiencing trouble can compare and make suggestions. Right now you're working in a vacuum, depriving yourself of potentially useful knowledge.


For pedantic reference: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points - Apple Support. Avoid the temptation to arbitrarily dismiss its recommendations; after all you're the one having trouble you shouldn't be having. The question is why.


More pedantic reference: If your Mac isn't connecting to the internet over Wi-Fi - Apple Support. Same comments.


If all else fails, EtreCheck.

34 replies
Question marked as Top-ranking reply

Oct 21, 2025 9:47 PM in response to Michael Collins3

Michael Collins3 wrote:

Thanks for the reply, but none of this works. I have tried all of it.


Understandable.


"renew DHCP lease" is as worthless as "check your WiFi" is obvious. Makes you wonder why people bother to post such nonsense.


I believe what Grant Bennet-Alder was suggesting was for you to provide some of the information he alluded to.


For example Wireless Diagnostics finishes with a Summary page. Ideally, it will resemble the following:


Anything else requires investigation.


Your Wi-Fi menu parameters may also be useful. As he wrote, "Screenshot, transcribe, or photograph the results and post back in a reply on the forums."


The Wireless Diagnostics log folder in /var/tmp will also contain copious amounts of information. The most useful file it generates may be diagnostics-environment.txt but others such as ping.txt and (your SSID)-diagnostics.txt are short enough to review and / or post for others who aren't experiencing trouble can compare and make suggestions. Right now you're working in a vacuum, depriving yourself of potentially useful knowledge.


For pedantic reference: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points - Apple Support. Avoid the temptation to arbitrarily dismiss its recommendations; after all you're the one having trouble you shouldn't be having. The question is why.


More pedantic reference: If your Mac isn't connecting to the internet over Wi-Fi - Apple Support. Same comments.


If all else fails, EtreCheck.

Oct 23, 2025 5:01 AM in response to Grant Bennet-Alder

Grant Bennet-Alder wrote:

as I said above, when RSSI signal strength deteriorates to under about -72, your Mac is searching hard for ANY other connection. This signal strength at a poorer -75 is about to switch.

In my opinion, THIS is the problem. 5 GHz signals fall off more quickly than lower frequencies, and simply do not carry as far.


Thanks for all of the help. It appears that you are correct. I don't know if I would have ever figured this out on my own. I was misled into ruling out WiFi strength as the problem because (1) the connection would always be good at first and (2) none of my other computers had WiFi issues at the same location. The 2.4 GHz channel is indeed good at that location. For some reason, my older computers are smart enough to use that channel. It's a mystery to me why my 2021 MacBook Pro isn't smart enough to use that channel. I will try a WiFi extender.

Oct 22, 2025 8:36 AM in response to Michael Collins3

I strongly suspect it is related to 5 GHz. I logged onto my router, which doesn't seem to allow one to split into 2.4 and 5 GHz. My ISP is soon planning to introduce a new system. At that time, I will enquire with them about splitting so that I can use 2.4 GHz. In the meantime, I will continue to work around the problem. One more bit of information that might be useful to someone who comes upon this discussion: My iPhone, which provides stable WiFi, has a 2.4 GHz channel (see the attached screenshot). Everything seems to point to 5 GHz as the culprit, but it's still a mystery to me what is really going on.


Oct 23, 2025 6:47 AM in response to Michael Collins3

I understand. Please confirm its Summary page has no entries other than Review Wi-Fi Best Practices. Nothing else. Just like EtreCheck, it is a diagnostic utility that gathers and reports information, and as such there can be no report that merely states "everything is fine." If there were though, you already know everything is not fine.


The Tx rate of 32 Mb/s is really low. You're on the right track wanting to constrain your connection to 2.4 GHz, but that has to be addressed with the router's settings which I understand may not be possible with the "ubee" device.


Also,


The Wireless Diagnostics log folder in /var/tmp will also contain copious amounts of information. The most useful file it generates may be diagnostics-environment.txt but others such as ping.txt and (your SSID)-diagnostics.txt are short enough to review and / or post for others who aren't experiencing trouble can compare and make suggestions.


Those three are fairly short and contain valuable information that may help you advance troubleshooting. It may be necessary to use the "additional text" icon to post them.


Otherwise, it's all just guesswork.

Oct 22, 2025 8:51 AM in response to Michael Collins3

Still using 802.11ax rules, you have established a 160 MHz connection on channel 100, which will engulf all channels from 100 to 128.


as I said above, when RSSI signal strength deteriorates to under about -72, your Mac is searching hard for ANY other connection. This signal strength at a poorer -75 is about to switch.


In my opinion, THIS is the problem. 5 GHz signals fall off more quickly than lower frequencies, and simply do not carry as far.


Noise is still good at -93, suggesting no nearby Routers interfering on channels 100 through 128.


You are using both your antennas, but here it is clear that lack of signal strength is what is limiting your to MCS index 1, the lowest possible that is still connected. At MCS=1, that SHOULD be producing 68 M bits/sec * two antennas, but it can not. It has not even been able to make a baseband (one bit per signaling interval) speed, because there is simply not enough signal strength.


The most obvious solution is to reduce the distance between Router and computer, by moving one or the other or BOTH. If cable-TV is providing your access, you can typically move the Router to ANY position on the cable-TV cable. (Some Providers use an integrated 'cable-TV Modem/Wi-Fi Router', and those resist this solution.)


Another approach that seems likely to work for you (because you appear to be far enough way from your neighbors) is to add an additional Access Point. This can be a device designed for this exact use, like EEROS access points, or any old Router set to 'Bridge/Access point' mode and using the same network-name.


My story:

My home is solid masonry construction, and has grounded wire lath behind the plaster. It is a Wi-Fi dead zone. I am using Five different Routers to provide coverage all over the house and out to the garage. In my case, I decided to pull Ethernet wiring for each Acces point.

Oct 21, 2025 6:58 PM in response to Michael Collins3

Wi-Fi Radio Signals from your Router fall off as the cube of the distance. Provided you are close to your Router and have clear line of sight and no competition from neighbors' Routers or known interference producers like microwave ovens.


All others need to do a more careful analysis to find out what is happening.


Wireless diagnostics:


Hold down the Option key while you click on the Wi-Fi icon on the menubar to open up the tools for investigating and fixing Wi-Fi issues


First is "Open Wireless diagnostics", which opens the wireless diagnostics Assistant, but does not proceed. NB> Wireless Diagnostics puts up its own menubar.


Using its Window menu, there are about eight different things you can do from here, but the top-level is to choose Diagnostics off the Window menu, or simply click (Continue) to do a quick check for Gross misconfiguration or operating problems. Your Admin password will be required. If any recommendations are shown, you should consider then seriously.


Next is to hold down the Option key and click the Wi-Fi icon as before. The screen that opens shows operating parameters of your Wi-Fi network. Screenshot, transcribe, or photograph the results and post back in a reply on the forums. Looks like this older one.




Oct 23, 2025 7:00 AM in response to John Galt

I went

John Galt wrote:

I understand. Please confirm its Summary page has no entries other than Review Wi-Fi Best Practices. Nothing else. Just like EtreCheck, it is a diagnostic utility that gathers and reports information, and as such there can be no report that merely states "everything is fine." If there were though, you already know everything is not fine.

The Tx rate of 32 Mb/s is really low. You're on the right track wanting to constrain your connection to 2.4 GHz, but that has to be addressed with the router's settings which I understand may not be possible with the "ubee" device.

Also,

The Wireless Diagnostics log folder in /var/tmp will also contain copious amounts of information. The most useful file it generates may be diagnostics-environment.txt but others such as ping.txt and (your SSID)-diagnostics.txt
are short enough to review and / or post for others who aren't experiencing trouble can compare and make suggestions.

Those three are fairly short and contain valuable information that may help you advance troubleshooting. It may be necessary to use the "additional text" icon to post them.

Otherwise, it's all just guesswork.


I went to /var/tmp but didn't see a Wireless Diagnostics folder.

Oct 24, 2025 9:46 AM in response to Grant Bennet-Alder

Grant Bennet-Alder wrote:

Placed right next to the computer, an extender is subject to the same issues as the computer. Placed near the Router, it can do little more than the router can.

In both cases, use of a channel that is in use by your neighbors' Routers will reduce speeds dramatically.

The extender needs to be part-way between the Router and the computer for best results. it needs to be on a Not busy channel. You may need to experiment with its placement and its channel assignment to find a really good location.

WiFi Explorer is great for that work.


I placed the extender about halfway between the router and the computer. It offers one (and perhaps only one) thing of value to me: it allows me to select the 2.4 GHz channel, which provides a rock-stable connection. It appears that it's going to be an effective temporary solution until the main router is replaced.

Oct 24, 2025 12:13 PM in response to Michael Collins3

Ok, I'm breaking my promise to review your submissions in greater depth 😄 because others already addressed everything that can be addressed.


One likely insignificant caveat: If you are using custom DNS entries in either your Macs or your network equipment try deleting them. Leave that up to your ISP unless you have justification for changing it. The reason is that your ISP is the first to get complaints when things don't work well, so it's in their best interest to use DNSs under their control and that keeps customers happy.


Some people don't have the luxury of choosing their ISPs, and the bigger they get, the worse they are.


By the way are you the same Michael Collins who was active on this site many years ago? If so you helped me with a problem I had with my SE/30 way back then, and I'm glad to finally return the favor.

Oct 23, 2025 6:51 AM in response to Michael Collins3

Michael Collins3 wrote:
….I would get my own router, but I don't know if it would be compatible with our cable TV. I will check with the ISP about my options.


Usual question: ask the ISP if they can switch your router or cable model into “bridged” mode.


Also whether you need to spoof their router MAC address or not.


(MAC here is the router hardware address, and not an Apple Mac computer.)


ISP-provided Wi-Fi gear is chosen on price and ISP supportability, and most everything else is a very distant third. At best.


If you do decide to replace, also are considering acquiring your own networking gear, consider an option that has direct or indirect Time Machine server capabilities.


More network data is better first though, as John Galt is seeking in their replies here.

Oct 24, 2025 7:25 AM in response to Michael Collins3

In both tests, your received signal from the router / access point is awful, and signal-to-noise (SNR) is awful.


That’s the problem.


Whether that’s weak signal from the Wi-Fi itself, or structures, or interference, or a combination?


There are competing networks interfering.


The local 2.4 GHz is filled with a mix of uncoordinated 20 MHz and 40 MHz channels. Everybody involved gets to share the three non-overlapping channels (1, 6, 11) are available with 20 MHz, or gets to share the two (3, 9) with 40 MHz, so, this is basically the typical pile-up of conflicting and overlapping networks.


2.4 GHz has lots of channel numbers assigned for tiny-narrow channels that nobody uses, and not nearly enough bandwidth for using either (3) 20 MHz channels or (2) 40 MHz channels that everybody uses. The lack of available channels is why 2.4 GHz is unreliable in many locations. Including yours.


Adding 5 GHz and (where available) 6 GHz access point coverage is probably the best path, but that means either mesh (which uses more channels for the mesh, more bad) or wired (no added channels, more work) backhaul. 5 GHz and 6 GHz also don’t penetrate walls and structures as well as 2.4 GHz, which is counterintuitively good.


Probably unrelated to the signaling: not being able to ping an Apple 17/8 server is interesting. Any nanny filters or parental controls or such active here?


I use the WiFi Explorer app for visualizing local and nearby network activity on macOS. It’s not free, but it works quite well. Some networking gear has monitoring and display built in, such as Ubiquiti. Whether your (presumably) Linksys Velop gear also offers that monitoring?

Oct 24, 2025 8:36 AM in response to Michael Collins3

I just set up a WiFi extender, which allows me to select between the 2.4 and 5 Ghz channels. For now, it appears that this will resolve the problem. After the ISP makes some changes, I will be much more knowledgeable about how to deal with such issues if any arise. Thanks to everyone for all of the help. One curious fact is that the 5 Ghz channel is still weak even with the extender. I don't know why, but it doesn't matter for my purposes.

Oct 22, 2025 6:43 AM in response to Michael Collins3

in that set of parameters, you are using 802.11ax rules and have established a 20 MHz connection on channel 1 in the 2.4 GHz band.


your signal at -65 dB is typical. We see as high as -40 next to the router, and at about -72 performance will be awful and your Mac will start seriously trying to switch to a different network.


Noise at -96 (very low) suggests you do not have common sources of interference, and you are likely alone on channel 1.

Using only NSS of 2 is low, but you are using both of your two antennas. 51 M bits/sec is as fast as you can go using NSS of 2. There may be other things limiting the use of higher modulations (the next step up switches to 16 patterns per signaling interval.)


I would be very interested to interpret parameters from any connection on 5 MHz band.



Oct 22, 2025 7:26 AM in response to Grant Bennet-Alder

Thanks so much for providing that information! The attached screenshot was obtained when it lost the connection at 5 GHz. At this moment, it is connected with the 5 GHz channel with a "dummy" streaming (a low-bandwidth audio file that was uploaded to my personal website) to keep it connected. It seems odd that it never seems to drop while streaming. Perhaps this is a clue. It also never seems to drop when using the 2.4 GHz channel. Is there a way to force it to use that channel?


EDIT: Right after posting the above, it switched over to 2.4 GHz. If only I could force it to stay on that channel.

MacBook Pro WiFi repeatedly drops

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